![]() ![]() You can see this in the colour of the sparks produced – the traditional sets produce orange sparks while the fireflash produces bright white sparks. They are much hotter than the sparks from traditional flint-and-steel sets. So if the rain has soaked you through, or if you fall out of your canoe, you always have the immediate means to light a fire.Ī good ferro-rod, or firesteel, produces very hot sparks. While it will corrode if kept damp for an extended period of time the firesteel’s effectiveness is not diminished by having been wet – ideal for wilderness use. A further plus point is that there are no moving parts to break. Unlike a box of matches or a cigarette lighter, the fireflash can literally light thousands of fires (the manufacturer reckons 12,000 strikes). Even if you are confident in lighting fire by friction, carrying a ferro-rod is prudent insurance in pretty much every environment you might find yourself. This simple piece of kit has to be the most dependable means of producing a spark. So, it’s still worth me highlighting the firesteel’s merits as a quick explanation of why it’s worth carrying one. I’ve met people who hadn’t managed to get consistent results with a firesteel and concluded they were “rubbish”. You may already be very familiar with the Swedish Firesteel, also known as a ferro-rod or fireflash, but they do take a little bit of practice to get the hang of. It doesn’t require oil or water while sharpening but does benefit from occasional cleaning with a little soap and water.įire-lighting is a cornerstone skill of bushcraft and fire can be of critical importance in a wilderness survival situation. Unlike many sharpening stones this type of stone can be used dry. At 32x100mm (1.26×3.94”), the Fallkniven DC4 whetstone easily fits into a pocket. Ceramic is slow to remove metal but gives a fine, sharp edge. Diamond is quite aggressive and takes metal off your blade quickly. There are various options but I like to use a small combination stone that has a fine diamond powder on one side and a fine ceramic surface on the other. Small pocket stone with relatively aggressive diamond one one side (shown) and ceramic on the other (not shown) for refining the edge is idea for travel. A small whetstone that can be kept on your person is a good idea in case you are separated from the rest of your equipment. A portable and efficient sharpening stone allows you to easily maintain a keen edge while in the field. There’s another old adage – “you are only as sharp as your knife”. A robust knife and strong sheath are ideal for wilderness use. There is an old adage – “your knife is your life”. If you can complete tasks and make items quickly and efficiently using your knife, then more becomes possible with only a knife. The more skilful you are, the more you can achieve in a given period of time. In the hands of someone skilled in bushcraft, a good quality knife is an invaluable tool. To me, though, what’s more important than the knife itself is your skill in using it. I think most would agree, in general, a knife for wilderness use should be strong and safe to use, it should hold its edge well and be relatively easy to sharpen. Many have a view on which knife is ‘best’ and almost everyone involved in bushcraft or survival has their favourite. It shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone that a bushcraft knife is at the top of my list! Knives generate strong opinions, even amongst outdoors people. ![]() Each item is important in its own right and could be more critical than another in a given situation or scenario. With the exception of the first item – a knife – the following discussion of equipment is not in any order of priority or importance. To me, however, these items are not just pieces of survival equipment, they are things I use everyday when I am living outdoors. If you were stranded in the middle of nowhere, your chances of survival would be significantly higher if you had this equipment with you. ![]()
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